After writing this blog I realised that it seems a bit discontinuous, i.e. no theme to the story. I think this reflects how I was in Zagreb. The first stage of my journey was complete, the Schengen area, and now I needed to work out what my plan was now and I was feeling a little bit lost mentally. This feeling has continued through my time in the Balkans and I will be coming back to it over the next few blogs.
The journey to Zagreb
The ride to Zagreb was two days from the festival and I planned on doing the bulk the on the first day giving me more time to do the boring admin stuff. I ended up wild camping next to a motor home park. I feel a little aggrieved that Slovenia provides space for motor homes to park up for three days for free but nothing for campers! The ride itself was rather dull, mainly roads and a bit of a Komoot shortcut involving a rather interesting trail.
The highlight of the ride was crossing the border into Croatia. The border guard said the border was for locals only and I had to go on the motorway! After some pushing that bikes are not allowed on the motorway she finally lets me pass. I then needed to remind them to stamp me out of the Schengen area and into Croatia!
I had booked into a party hostel in Zagreb, something I later regretted. My original plan was to do admin stuff in the morning and explore in the afternoon. I got drunk two nights, resulting in writing two days off! Never the less I managed to do two tours.
Touring Zagreb and the formation of Yugoslavia
The first explaining the origin of the city and its highlights. The second on the Communism and war times. Unfortunately most of the museums are still shut after an earth quake and are still under major repair. Like most of the churches including the cathedral.
After WWI the ‘winning powers’ decided the Austro-Hungary empire was to be disbanded. Forming the Southern European states into Yugoslavia (Yugo meaning Southern and slavia meaning Slavic peoples). This was initially given to the Monarchy of Serbia with a Parliament, which he eventually disbanded.
Croatia like Slovenia suffered at the hands of the Nazis and Mussolini during WWII and following became Yugoslavia again but under Communism and Tito. The breakup of Yugoslavia, and Serbia wanting to redraw the map to encompass all ethnic Serbs lead to a war with Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. However, the map from the meeting where, the decision was made to include all ethnic Serbs doesn’t reflect the location of Serbs living in Croatia and Bosnia.
There was later a difficult truce and Croatia rebuilt it army and with the co-operation of the Bosnian army were able to push the Serbs back and reclaim their land. I have covered this in brief, but I would recommend signing up for the Communism and War tour in Zagreb.
I also attended the Technical (Nikola Tesla) museum in Zagreb. It is mainly exhibits highlighting the history of converting energy but the Nikola Tesla component is very good and also involves a demonstration of many of his inventions and theories using members of the audience. There was also a chance to get a new tyre and realign the brakes (a weekly process).
Indecision
I was still deciding my route onwards towards Turkey at this point and trying to debate between three routes. Firstly head to the coast and follow the EV8 all the way down to Albania and across Greece. Second was to go part way to the coast and through the Dinaric Alps and the other North towards Belgrade and rejoin the EV6. It doesn’t help that I am not really a good decision maker! I eventually make the decision to head to Belgrade and an opportunity to understand the Serbian side of the conflict.