There was first a small journey to Dushanbe and the Green House Hostel, known to all travellers of the Pamir Mountains. I cycled for about 3 days of this journey and made it through the border in a record-breaking 20 minutes. I don’t think that record will ever be broken! Through the city of Khujand, Tajikistan’s second city.
The city is nice but very little to do; however I got a chance to sort out my money situation. I only have Mastercard and after some research only one back takes it, Halyk Bank. I will need to stock up and start using US dollars! Due to some nasty climbs and even nastier tunnels, think no lighting or ventilation, I decided to hitchhike with the bike to Dushanbe. Always a challenge, but I was lucky. Solyjon was travelling from Uzbekistan, bringing coal for Shashlik (barbequed meat) and I was able to throw my bike in the back and get a lift.
On arriving at Green House Hostel, I was greeted by Ollie, Seb, food and two days later food poisoning. Nothing to do with their food! More likely to be the cafe around the corner. We agreed on a route and how we were going to do it. Mainly hide from the heat in the afternoon.
First days
It started easily enough, with nice quiet and asphalt roads. But eventually, we had to turn off the main road onto the old road originally called the Pamir Highway, now known to cyclists as the North Road to Khorog. We kept hiding in cafes during the afternoon and riding for an hour or two in the evening. This meant late finishes and we also started early mornings. I also realise I don’t like cycling on an empty stomach, especially when you have 200/300m climbs! I went back to having breakfast first thing and caught Ollie and Seb up.
The road was a bit destroying on the legs, with rough gravel track at best and lots of steep climbs followed by a descent losing all the elevation gained. One lunch stop involved a central area for the trade of mulberries and this in turn meant lots of children wanting to play. The boys were always more confident to play with the foreigners than the girls.
We were pushing distances and elevation each day and it was starting to take its toll. On the third day to Tavildara, I ended up hitching a ride for the last 20km. Ending the day not completely knackered and knowing you have a massive climb the next day, made all the difference! The day of the climb to Tavildara pass, over 1,800m climb. I was sure I would not make this without either camping halfway up or hitching all or part of the journey! I managed to get a hitch a third of the distance. This meant I could finish the day at the top!
The fun of altitude and sheep
We were now at 3,253m above sea level and the air had started to become noticeably thinner. I developed a headache but decided against taking anything for it or going back down. We decided to camp at the pass, my idea! My thinking went along the lines of we need to build some conditioning to the elevation before entering the big climbs!
Ollie and Seb opted for pitching inside an abandoned military building. I opted to pitch outside, comfortable in the fact that I can pitch my tent in the wind. We were also camped next to some herdsmen and their herd of 2,000 goats and sheep. Thinking nothing of it we went to sleep. A thunderstorm came along. I still had my headache. All night! The herdsmen decided to move the herd into the building, making for an interesting night for Ollie and Seb. However, not all would fit and I ended up with loads of frightened animals around my tent. No chance of any sleep!
For reasons best known to the herdsmen they started setting off firecrackers whenever there was some lightning. As a result, I gave up on the idea of sleep! Eventually, the storm stopped and they moved the herd off at about 5 AM and eventually silence. But the damage done, I got up and packed. There was no sign of Ollie and Seb. Their bikes had moved and I assumed they had left in the night and headed down to Kalaikum. I didn’t know they had moved rooms when the herd arrived!
Downhills are fun when everything stays on
I had no signal to let them know my plans so I headed down the mountain. It would take just an hour but the road being a bumpy track meant that bits kept coming loose or falling off completely and I would have to stop and walk back up the hill. I need to make sure everything is bolted down correctly before setting off!
In Kalaikum I sent a message, assuming they had gone to a cafe. I got no reply so settled down for breakfast and coffee in the nearest cafe. Eventually, Seb turned up and we exchanged stories. I just hadn’t seen them on my walk around the building. Ollie turned up later still; he had three punctures on the way down.
We knew from Kalaikum there were roadworks almost all the way to Khorog so we had decided to try and hitch that part of the journey. But three people with bikes hitching was going to be very difficult. I agreed to set off earlier and after about 13km I managed to get a hitch from an Austrian by the name of Carina. Carina was travelling with her campervan from Austria to Mongolia and back.
We had a fun couple of days, the roads are that bad, driving to Khorog. Unfortunately, Ollie and Seb had failed to get a hitch and that meant I had a couple of extra days rest in Khorog and the Pamir Lodge than planned! But it did give me the chance to find a new front tyre after mine got damaged whilst hitching a ride with Carina.
The next stop is the Wakhan corridor…