The dawn of a new day arrives as we sail into the port at Hoek of Holland. I can’t see this because I am staying on the inside cabin; however I do get a lovely jingle at 05:30. Writing this blog the jingle starts playing in my head. Realising I only had 4 hours sleep, combination of time difference and deciding to have an extra beer whilst writing my journal.
This is the first time in my life I have ever written a journal and I glad I am. I never realised there was ever this much to write about a day. Clearing your mind at the end of the day whilst tidying you thoughts makes blogging easier; it also aides in a good night’s sleep. After years of sleep issues why did I never do this before?
Stepping on to the deck and watching the ship slowly slip into port and dock, my journey still does not feel real and I wonder when and if the enormity will hit. But for now I will relish in the new found freedom I have gained and the feeling on entering a new country.
Setting off from the ferry towards passport control I am reminded that we have left the EU; the queue for the ‘all passports’ section with the EU queue begin shorter and faster! Collecting my first stamp in the new passport and wondering whether there is space for all the stamps and visas, I set off cycling.
Cycling infrastructure… done right
Naturally I started cycling on the ‘correct’ side of the road and was only saved by the fantastic cycling infrastructure of the Netherlands. It is truly amazing the cycling infrastructure of the Netherlands, if only the UK was like this! There is a separate network of cycle paths to cross the whole country; many do not even run alongside the roads until you reach a village/town/city.
As I head towards Castricum in the North West I pass the sand dunes and notice kiteboard/kitesurfing is a popular pastime. I stop to watch the boarders with rhythmic movements following the wind and parting the sea with their wake. I vow to give it a go when I get a chance. How hard can it be?
Knowing my friend was not going to be back from a course until 18.30, I have time, so I head to Den Haag (The Hague) and have second breakfast, cake and coffee. Should I rename the journey the #worldcaketour, it seems appropriate. Although I am not sure I have the money for a coffee and cake stop every day!
I wanted to take a walk around and visit some museums; however this will become a common problem, there is no secure storage for bikes where we can leave bags attached. It’s not feasible to remove all the bags and carry them and lock the bike up. I guess no one really caters for cycle tourer’s needs!
I cycle around and visited the International courts and continue north along the coastal path. The dunes are occasionally broken up with little woods, the only bit of nature really left. Reaching Castricum gives me a chance to catch-up with Giselle.
The next day we visit the town of Volendam, with the Dutch nickname ‘Cocaine Town,’ it’s a picturesque harbour town. The expensive yachts match the buildings but clash with the touristy front; people, bars, cafes and the usual tourist traps of guided tours, tat (souvenir) shops and the more unusual dressing up in traditional costume! Taking the ferry to the nearby island of Marken; also touristy but with a more traditional style of building and the Dutch lifting bridges.
Warmshowers… what a brilliant idea
Leaving on Sunday heading towards the German border via Steenwijk, a Northern town, I would stay with my first Warmshowers host. First I had to traverse the North of the Netherlands and across the IJsselmeer. Fortunately Komoot knew of a ferry from Enkhuizen to Urk; however it didn’t know it only ran during the summer months!
This left what was planned 120km day now at over 140km. To add to the punishment for not checking the ferry, there was a headwind with a gust which could drop me to a walking speed. The worst bit was watching people go past you on electric bikes with ease, the jealousy peaking! After about 100km with legs running empty and emotions running dry I took a train from Dronten. The pangs of hanger starting to kick in!
Meeting my first Warmshowers host, Martin and his partner Kirsten, was an enjoyable experience. Secure place for the bike, fantastic food (lasagne), a comfortable bed and, most importantly, a warm shower! After a long day cycling into headwinds covered in sun cream, sweat and dirt a warm shower is a simple luxury everyone wants. It beats a flannel wash anyday!
But above all else the most enjoyable part of a Warmshowers stay is the chance to discuss cycle touring, tips and places to go/avoid. Considering I had only just started out, Martin’s advice was very much appreciated. One thing I didn’t realise was the shelters (similar to Denmark) were also available in Germany, just a smaller number.
The next day saw me leaving the Netherlands and entering Germany. But I noticed an odd difference between the Dutch from the first part of my journey and the North East I am now cycling through. They wave and say hello when meeting cyclists going in the opposite direction. This was such a difference that it stood out to me and was a pleasant way to end my time in the Netherlands.