‘How quickly can you get to Kochkor? The riders are arriving a day earlier’ the message from Regina, volunteer co-ordinator, goes. Unfortunately, I and the other volunteers were about a day away and would not arrive until the evening. One of the support/media cars would have to look after the competitors until we arrive.
The riders are getting faster each year and this year is no exception. Sofiane Sehili, the eventual winner (for the third time), knocked a day off his previous record. There was also more competition this year, which showed in the riders; some were a little short in how they communicated. A combination of tiredness and adrenaline from the race were playing havoc.
Our first night was looking after the front runners, except Sofiane and Justinas (they had left when we arrived). They had dinner provided by the Yurt camp, restocked with water and Snickers. There was a little groan from some at the sight of Snickers. There are limited options when racing. Then to sleep, just three hours for most and then they would set off again. Most had left before 03:00 riding around the lake. Sunrise wouldn’t be for another three hours.
Song-Kul – a Kyrgyzstan jewel
Song-Kul is one of the highlights of Kyrgyzstan and does not disappoint. Sitting at an elevation of 3,000m, 29km in length and 18km in width it is a stunning view especially as the sun comes up or even after the frequent storms. The gravel track around the lake is dotted with yurt camps and is considered touristy for Kyrgyzstan. However, you would be hard-pressed to meet a tourist from another camp.
Locals still gallop around on horses, well mainly the children. Herds of sheep and goats with their shepherds roam the hills and grasslands. You will also find horses roaming free and others whose owners found they had roamed too far and resorted to tying their front legs together.
The job was relatively easy, stamp their book, make sure they had a meal and somewhere to sleep (if wanted). We were a team of three, Ana from Switzerland and James from the USA, with extra support from Manu for a couple of days, a competitor who had to scratch after injuring his ribs.
The yurts are considered luxury accommodations in Kyrgyzstan and come with a premium. However, they are often over-glorified glamping; futon-style mattresses on the floor and cold. These were nice, proper beds and raised off the ground, with mattresses and a stove heated with wood.
Long days and even longer nights
The competitors would often come through in groups. You either had a lunchtime group, riders who started the climb in the morning (usually camping at the bottom the night before). Or you had evening and even early morning (think graveyard, 02.00-06.00) group. One of us would always be available, and often a member of the yurt camp staff as well.
The staff would set up the camp at the beginning of the season, April/May, and would remain there until September when the camp would be broken down. Often the children would come and stay and they would play games with us. Or you might see the daughters attempting, and eventually succeeding, in getting the youngest to take her first steps.
It would be nice when a competitor came through with an anecdote. One case, Fabio Crosara, recounted the story of ending up in hospital with saddle sores so bad the doctor had to remove and clean up the mess. This resulted in Fabio having to borrow, on a long-term lease, a pillow (he left money where the pillow was) and strap it to his saddle so he could continue and finish the race.
Other competitors create a completely different atmosphere. With just two days to go before checkpoint 3 closed, Michael Gaffey (dressed as a bee), comes through and, after discovering they had beer, decides to grab a few. What followed was about 4 hours of a party atmosphere, music, beer and jokes. Michael is one person who I will not forget in a hurry and I met again at the finish line, with a beer ready in hand.
You can’t stay in beauty or live on washboard forever
Our last day was a more relaxed affair; however, we did have to deal with a few much-stressed riders. Some struggled to find the checkpoint and mentioned this to us in a more stern-than-expected voice. However, after some food and drink, they were more chilled with us. By 19:00 the last competitors had arrived and were either staying the night or leaving soon. We could break out the beers, play cards and relax knowing our job was complete for the week.
One of our tasks was asking the competitors for comments. However, the majority of comments complained about the washboard, a type of road where the surface represents the old clothes hand washing boards. A butt pain-inducing type of road. However, sarcasm was deployed by asking ‘for more washboard’, Sebastian Brewer, or ‘please more washboard and hike-a-bike,’ Artis Zugs!
Karen Wykurz believed that washboard is a metaphor for life. At first, you think you can go round and find the easy path, then you accept and try to push through and finally, realise it is horrible and you don’t want to be here anymore!
I guess 100km of washboard in a row was maybe too much!