Crossing over into Germany two things standout. Firstly, there is no visible border; you only know when the signs change language! Secondly, the amount of nature still present, namely in the form of trees. Lots of places to wild camp and cover from the endless pounding heat of the sun. I am sure I will become a British lobster at some point on this trip!
The nature also gives me the opportunity of wild camping again; however camping in an impending thunder storm is not always wise. Playing with Komoot at lunch I discovered it shows shelters and I home in on a shelter near some water. I managed to get to the location by 6pm, made dinner and read my book, A promised land by Barack Obama. There were several signs stating no camping. Surely no one would be around with storms roiling in. I was wrong.
A group showed up to plant seeds in the new flower beds they had created around the lake. An attempt to help re-wild the area. I got chatting to one of the team and we discussed my trip and camping in the shelter, no objections so I assumed it would be ok. It does seem that no one really has a problem with wild camping.
Turned out to be a lovely night’s sleep once the storm died down around 9pm. The morning sun broke through the clouds creating a mist above the lake. A beautiful moment to have a quick coffee and porridge. My original plan was to set off towards Hamburg to meet up with a friend, Carlos, from my time living in Denmark; however, due to work commitments he would not be available. This meant I could take an extra day in Bremen before heading North towards Denmark.
Oldenburg… sleepy old town.
The journey towards Bremen went via a the German town of Oldenburg following the Küsten canal. The canal is still used to carry cargo today. The barges full of sand and other aggregates push along slowly usually with a car on the back. The route picked out for me was to cycle along the cycle path next to the main road into Oldenburg; however, the opposite side of the canal proved the better route. Mainly trails covered in trees with the occasional cobbled road.
On arriving into Oldenburg it comes across as a large sleepy old town; everyone knowing what’s going on, no one in a rush and always happy to chat to new people. The town’s relaxed nature gives rise to a canal side cafe/bar culture and small independent shops down the side streets. I would love to go back one day and spend more time; the town needs a good exploration.
The next part of the journey was towards Bremen, but once again Komoot picked out the paths next to main roads. Determined not to go down this path I chose to continue along the canals into Bremen; adding distance but reducing climb. What I failed to realise was to get over the canal I would need to go up several sets of steps, pushing a bike weighing 40kg+! The suffering was completed with a beautiful view, if only I liked heights!
However the ride was more beautiful and it afforded me the chance to rest on a lookout structure. Also needing a rest was an ex-German paratrooper. He was training for a 50km hike in 12 hours; much harder for him after years out of the usual training undertaken by para-troupers. If he completes this year, I am sure he will, next year it will be a 100km in 24 hours.
Hostels can be dull or odd…
Arriving into Bremen, an industrial town, in Northern Germany the hostel I am staying at, HafenTraum, has a completely different vibe. On entering into the hostel you are greeted by caravans and cabins built on countries themes. For example the UK is a small caravan draped in memorabilia from around the UKs 4 corners. Canada’s is based around the various animals and their love of ice hockey. There is an odd feeling to the hostel but one which encourages talk.
Staying in the bunk room I meet Jonathan, a Ghanian living in the Netherlands and Kuura, a Fin. Jonathan is cycling from Rotterdam to Copenhagen to attend a friend’s PhD defence. Kuura is just travelling in Germany but is also interested in cycle touring! Naturally we came together as a group quickly and spent a long evening discussing the latest news/politics, economics and cycle touring!