First impressions usually count towards a country. But I’m going to let the chaos and issue I had in Dumai, my point of entry, go by the side. Despite a smelly, dirty foreigner on a bike turning up, I have only found people to be helpful and kind. Once, I got through the complexities of visa on arrival, getting cash, money exchanged, and a mobile contract it was time for my first night in a hotel. It turned out good, more than I expected and a lot cheaper. The only issue was they allowed smoking in the rooms, the lingering smell is hard to put out of your mind.
Again, I allowed Komoot to design the majority of my route and as usual, I regretted that decision! I found myself on a few dead-ends and then heading into the middle of a palm tree plantation which I would spend two days in before getting out! However, as with many of these odd routes, it brings a surprise in meeting people and the usual communication barriers. My first day ended at a mosque where the Imam allowed me to stay.
Oil, oil, it’s always about oil
As well as palm oil there was the usual crude oil in production and a few of the workers were waiting for the prayer, it was Ramadan, so they could eat. One in particular came over to me and introduced himself as Aidil. He worked in administration on the oil rig nearby and didn’t get to practice English. So, he took the opportunity to chat. He has also worked for several US companies, which is why his English is so good.
The village was basic and many people were still living in basic wooden huts on stilts. Even the mosque was run down and needed TLC. Whilst some areas of Indonesia are getting investment, there is still much not getting any.
Rain, rain, glorious rain
My next day was horrible. Considering I had taken a month off my legs were doing well, but my bum not so much. I managed only 3km before the rain started. Diving for cover I had breakfast and then jumped into a cafe for a coffee. Lightning flashed across the sky, rain rattled and pounded the metal roofs and steam rose from the oil pipe. I came to the realisation the rain was not stopping anytime soon.
Eventually, I got going again and turned straight onto a mud track, potholes galore. It made me want for British roads. The bum suffered. I wanted a shower and a proper bed! But this meant I would need to ride for most of the day. The only blessing was an overcast day, the intensity of the sun just wasn’t there. It would be a 10-hour day but I eventually made it to a guesthouse on a road made of asphalt. The owner invited me for dinner with his family and workers from his guesthouse and trucking company. Sleep came quickly!
Heat exhaustion
There was something about the heat here. It hit differently in Malaysia. The temperature was lower or similar but the humidity meant I was sweating on a different level. With this day having no cloud cover, the sun’s full power could hit. I turned off the main road for a ‘Komoot shortcut’ and soon found myself without any cover on slow roads. I ended up spending longer in the peak sun than I would like. I eventually came across an old wood hut, burnt out but still with a roof. I took shelter but it would take half an hour before my temperature would come down and I could eat my lunch. I would just sit and do nothing. I left a couple of hours later. Ideally, I would find accommodation with AC but the nearest was over 50km away. Not practical in my situation.
Large pebbles and deep ruts formed the roads on this shortcut and I would have to push uphill with no tree cover. I was running out of energy but on my last hill back to the main road, and at the end of the shortcut, several groups of children rushed past me on the mopeds and waited for me at the top. They all wanted a selfie. I let them have one. I got them to take one for me as well.
Maybe I should’ve taken the first week slower
It was the energy boost I needed. I managed one more hill to a viewing point over the lake. There I took shelter in a restaurant for dinner and the owner invited me to stay the night when I explained I had to go find somewhere to sleep. What I didn’t realise was they would also be sleeping in the restaurant.
I had little sleep that night. It was an open-plan restaurant (it had a roof but no walls) and the vehicles going past were particularly noisy. A group came in at 3 AM wanting coffee; the owners woke up and served. Luckily, the children slept through it. It can’t be the nicest of lives for the children.
The next couple of days were not troublesome, firstly they were shorter, better roads and finished either in a hotel or a destination I was aiming for.
Harau valley
Mentioned in Lonely Planet as worth a visit; however, it has become touristy. I’m not talking about the massive multicoloured water park, devoid of water, in the middle of the valley but the number of buildings catering to accommodation. Not all buildings are in keeping with the area. It made an odd scene and one which I felt spoiled the natural beauty of the place.
That being said, there are still pockets of beauty if you look in a certain direction. At the very end of the valley, you will find a waterfall which is about a 5-minute walk off the end of the main road. It is almost untouched, except for someone who has tried to start a business.
I camped at a spot overlooking the valley and met Alfi and Elisa who had also come to watch the sunset, although not camp. They popped into town and brought me some dinner and more water. Unnecessary, but very welcome and once again the kindness of people around the World is shown.
Next stop Bukittinggi and a much-needed rest.