I stayed at a well-known rest stop for travellers in Bukittinggi, Hotel Hello Guesthouse, but it didn’t have air conditioning. Luckily, it’s over 1,000m and was a bit more bearable. Plus the heavy storms every night kept the temperature down. The next day was a write-off and my body just needed to recover but I felt a cold coming and knew it might take longer than expected. However, the next day I felt better and decided to chance a visit to a coffee place I had heard of.
‘Poo’ coffee to the rescue?
It was only a 10km day trip from my accommodation but a chance to see how I was doing. Despite feeling like this would be an easy ride, my lungs still felt ill. However, I was here and met Umul, who runs Rafflesia Luwak Coffee in a little village known for the Rafflesia Arnoldi flower. Umul was great, explaining the process of the Civets who eat the beans and then part digest and ferment them in their body. To collect the poo, the civets will only poo on a clean surface. The poo is then cleaned, roasted and ground to make the coffee.
The process is completely organic and wild; no civets are held in captivity for its production. The taste is one of smoothness without a massive caffeine high. Plus no filters are needed. Just mix with hot water and wait a few minutes. Perfect for camping.
Returning to town I decided to stay an extra night for a further day’s rest. It would mean missing out on a trip via a lake and some nice pictures. After the extra day’s rest, I headed down to Padang. I would arrive on the last day of the Eid celebrations.
An Irishman and an Englishman enter a bar
It might sound like the start of a joke but essentially that’s what happened! I had headed to the old town part of Pedang looking for some nice pictures during the sunset. The colours are always better at this time of day. But after a wander and some lovely photographs I headed to a known bar for foreigners to grab a beer and some food. After a while, Liam wanders in and we chat at the bar. Several beers later I was sure the next day would be a write-off.
The morning was, but it was a good night and I’ve not had a night like that in a long time. The afternoon was spent wandering a few shops and the museum. I was debating on whether I would get away with hiking sandals for the hike up Kerinci Volcano or if should I get proper boots. I went with sandals.
The museum was interesting and explained the history of the area. The people here are known as the Minangkabau and live in a matriarchal society, which developed before Islam arrived in the area. This means all wealth and property pass through the mother’s line. It is still in practice today but more flexible with earned income handed down to sons and daughters. But land, ancestral property, handed down strictly to daughters.
I set off the next day, later than planned because I had to wait for the laundry. This would give me a potential problem arriving for my Kerinci hike but hopefully, it will still give me enough time to sort out my visa extension. I regret not doing an e-visa as opposed to getting my visa on arrival.