Land, clear immigration, pick up bag and bike box, put the bike together and cycle off into the sunset. Simple. I landed, headed straight to Immigration and then I had to go back because I needed to fill out a piece of paper with details they already had linked to my passport and e-visa. I finally cleared immigration. Picked up the bag, easily. I’m getting good at this flying stuff.
Bike box. Now where is oversized luggage? Found it, ummm… doesn’t seem to be doing much! Ah, a gentleman in a suit is coming towards me. ‘Are you expecting anything, Sir?’
‘Um. Yes, my bike box, please’ I replied. It definitely went on the plane, I thought.
‘Let me check for you.’ Excellent, good service I think. Then eventually, 5 minutes later. The lift has broken down but if you sit over there we will bring it to you. I guess they need to muster a team and bring it up the stairs. Half an hour to an hour passed and the same person came over and told me they would need to bring it up the lift in the domestic arrivals. Apparently, they don’t have any stairs for this section.
The long wait
So, they took me through customs and over to the exit for domestic arrivals. I can’t go in so I will need to wait. So wait I did. About an hour later he came over again. At least they haven’t forgotten about me. He needs to get it signed off by the Superintendent of the Airport so that he can bring my box across. I wait again, longer this time. He comes back with another person they need a picture of my passport and visa and the luggage slip so they can confirm it is my luggage! Provided I sat back down to wait but finally grabbed some lunch.
Finally, after what turned out to be a 5-hour wait for someone to say yes, the box came through from Domestic arrivals. This is not the end of the ordeal, I cannot take it. We have to go to International arrivals and customs has to tick it off so I can have it. But they have to show permission before the guards will let them through. Another 30 minutes goes by and I eventually have my bike. I head outside and assemble it! I am now cycling in India! The furthest East I have ever been!
My introduction to Indian bureaucracy is complete.
Chaos, beautiful chaos
Quiet, serene and organised. The airport can leave you with an odd first impression of India which, is not necessarily correct. India is a country which is felt. You first hear the sound, the auto-rickshaws shooting past, the cars, trucks, buses and lastly the motorbikes. Especially the Royal Enfield. They pull up to you as you ride along the highway and start a conversation and near the airport almost always say ‘Welcome to India.’
Carrying on into the heart of Delhi, famous for its traffic, it gets even busier. I have to head to a couple of shops before I hit the hostel I have booked and end up riding to Delhi at night. This is a baptism by fire for riding in India. If you can handle this you can handle anything. I’m enjoying this chaos, beautiful chaos. The horns, the roar of the bikes, and the whining of the auto-rickshaws zoom past in a blaze of lights and noise.
An explosion of colour, especially, after Central Asia. Red, yellow, white, green and others all over. The rickshaws have also been dressed up along with the trucks. Eventually, the smell of the city starts to hit. Open sewers in places. Especially some of the poorer parts Komoot has sent me through.
I eventually found the main bazaar, near New Delhi station. Now to find my hostel in amongst even more chaos. Side streets pop off the main road running through the centre. Bustling with everyone trying to sell clothes, food, beer and more. After cycling through the side streets, motorcyclists still bombing down the metre-wide streets, I find my hostel. I am looking forward to sleep.
Going to be a bit longer before I can leave
I would have to move hostel again tomorrow, I opted for one a bit further out and a little less manic in the surrounding area! My original plan was to catch a train to Amritsar and then cycle to Nepal, but after realising the level of bureaucracy needed to get me and a bike on a train I opted to change my journey and cycle to Nepal via Rishikesh.
I was still awaiting orders to come in to modify my bike setup. So, I had to wait a few days longer than planned, cutting my time shorter to reach Nepal for the hiking season. However, this allowed me some time to do some tours and visit some parts of Delhi. The first, of which, was the old town with the Sikh temple. It also produces meals for many of the city’s inhabitants, especially the poor. Our guide knew all the places to go, including the spice market and a set of steps to the top where we could look out over the town and Jama mosque from the 17th century.
Our second tour was to the Tibetan enclave. Initially, a refugee camp but granted to the Tibetans so they could build a new home. It now comprises of a couple of Buddhist temples and mainly a market including many restaurants catering to tourists. I don’t feel the Tibetan people’s culture comes through; it feels more like another bit of Delhi.
My orders for new kit have arrived and the bike is now ready for the next adventure, India and Nepal await.