I was dropped off on the edge of Old Dhaka, still some 10km from the Gulshan part of Dhaka where I was meeting a friend from my time in Arla. Laurent also offered for me to stay in his apartment whilst in Dhaka. This was a blessing; accommodation in Bangladesh can be very mixed with what you might get. Plus it is always nice to be hosted; Laurent and his son Marcus were a great host. A few days of comfort can go a long way on a cycle trip and is always highly appreciated.
I was warned traffic in Dhaka was terrible and worse than in India, which is saying something. But I found even Old Dhaka, which is by far the worst, was comparable to that of Varanasi. However, in Gulshan where I was staying, it was benign and even calm. They at least obeyed the rules of the road. But this is a rich area and is where the majority of expats live. Plus, they have a nice cafe for my latte addiction. But nowhere for my samosa addiction, I’m on 3 to 4 a day.
My first couple of days were mainly rest, but I did get to visit the Arla office and plan for a visit to the new UHT site they were building. I can never quite leave Arla! I also got to visit the Liberation War Museum.
This museum is run by the police and as a memorial to the martyrs and police members who died in the liberation of Bangladesh. Originally, Bangladesh was known as East Pakistan after the break-up post-British rule. Pakistan ruled over East Pakistan with brutality and the police finally stood up to them and started a war, which eventually turned into the liberation of the people and the new country of Bangladesh.
Whilst venturing out into Dhaka I also got a chance to visit Nabil before he flew off to Bangkok. I had briefly met Nabil in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan and rode with him in Nepal. He had been visiting family in Dhaka. Always nice to meet people again and hopefully we will meet again on the road. We are heading in a similar direction.
Opposition blockade stops play
Unfortunately, on the day I was due to visit the Arla site the opposition party had decided on a blockade protest around the area of the site. It is an industrial area and an attempt to cause maximum impact prior to elections in January. I rearranged the visit for a couple of days later and chose to cycle there. But I had gained an extra day and didn’t know what to do with myself! I devoted it to reading!
I also got to do some sightseeing in Old Dhaka, the National Hindu Temple, the National Mosque and the Armenian church. The last of the three was unexpected but a small enclave of Armenians made Bangladesh their home many years ago and constructed a church with an adjoining cemetery. But the best bit about visiting Old Dhaka is the ghats and markets. The ghats on the river are awash with small boats either trading or moving people.
The markets
Then there is the wholesale market. The noise and bustle of the market can become overwhelming and I am sure it is for the people who attempt to drive through it. You have the large lorries with containers on the back vying for space to offload, people running around either selling, buying or attempting to offload the lorries.
Then you have the rickshaws, both motorised and leg-powered, getting ill-tempered with everyone else and finally the mad people trying to drive an SUV through the market in the opposite direction to the lorries. It all made for a delightful chaotic scene of which I just got to sit back and enjoy. I feel a little coordination and organisation would be very beneficial.
The other market is more spread out but involves winding down little streets with rickshaws passing up and down. You’ll find small tea stalls every 20m or so, people bustling about for sarees, kettles or just grabbing a bite with a friend. You could spend hours wandering those streets, much fun and adventure to be had.
But alas, it was time to get moving again and ready to leave. This time to Arla’s Bangladesh site, then to the northwest of the country and Bangladesh’s second UNESCO site Sompur Mahavihara, an ancient Buddhist monastery.