Wandering CrankWandering Crank

Biking the World one crank at a time

Journey

For the wish of better roads

by Nathan Molyneaux on category , ,

Ollie, Seb and I set off from Langar late in the afternoon, with the intention of camping on a hill overlooking the town.  It would take us about an hour but the views made up for it.  It was also a chance for Ollie and I to practice our astrophotography.  I only got a couple of good shots; something to add to my learning of photography.

Masha and Adam would join us in the morning after collecting some bread for us all, their guesthouse offered to make us bread.  After they arrived we set off.  It was going to take us about 2 days to get to Khargush Pass and 1 day to go over and down.  There was little traffic, a bonus but also no life, no villages or shops.  There was a possibility of a cafe about halfway.

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The Wakhan Corridor, a land of poverty but with ambitions.

by Nathan Molyneaux on category , ,

After a longer stay than planned at the Pamir Lodge, Ollie and Seb were not able to get a hitch, so I set off.  It was probably a good thing, the staff were excellent and you meet many travellers.  But it was time to leave the city and head out.

The road was nice to begin with, asphalt with views of the Hindu Kush Mountains in Northern Afghanistan.  It soon descended into a gravel track with potholes!  I was told this is the best bit of the road!

My target for the first day was the Garam Chashma hot springs and the possibility of camping on the way back to the main road.  The road up was a rough track but only an extra 4km distance to the journey overall.  When I got there, people were surprised to see a cyclist, not common off the main road.  The springs were amazing and a local from Dushanbe, who holidays here every year, helped me navigate the rules.  There were specific times for men and women.

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The North Road to the Pamir Mountains and the fun of altitude and sheep

by Nathan Molyneaux on category , ,

There was first a small journey to Dushanbe and the Green House Hostel, known to all travellers of the Pamir Mountains.  I cycled for about 3 days of this journey and made it through the border in a record-breaking 20 minutes.  I don’t think that record will ever be broken!  Through the city of Khujand, Tajikistan’s second city.

The city is nice but very little to do; however I got a chance to sort out my money situation.  I only have Mastercard and after some research only one back takes it, Halyk Bank.  I will need to stock up and start using US dollars!  Due to some nasty climbs and even nastier tunnels, think no lighting or ventilation, I decided to hitchhike with the bike to Dushanbe.  Always a challenge, but I was lucky.  Solyjon was travelling from Uzbekistan, bringing coal for Shashlik (barbequed meat) and I was able to throw my bike in the back and get a lift.

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Uzbekistan: A bright future but some ugliness remains

by Nathan Molyneaux on category , ,

Arriving at the home of my host I suddenly realised there were a lot of other volunteers.  I had the impression that the opportunity did not gain much attention.  The next day I got my first chance at helping out.  Filip, a Swiss who was also volunteering, and I headed over to the school.  The children were prepping for their IELTS exam in June.

On arrival, I was asked to give a quick introduction to myself.  The first thing they all noticed was my accent.  A native British accent is always tricky and whilst my accent is relatively neutral, the speed at which I speak isn’t!  I had to slow down and enunciate my words more clearly.  Our host had to leave, so Filip and I took over.  We played a little hangman and I added in a few tongue twisters to help with pronunciation.  It was fun but very tiring.

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The Fergana Valley

by Nathan Molyneaux on category , ,

Leaving Tashkent was an absolute nightmare.  Busy roads, disobedient drivers (do drivers ever follow the rules) and badly built roads.  The worst part was leaving the city past the airport and market.  There is only one road and it has everyone stopping to pick up people and goods.  There was one police car watching the chaos and occasionally they would put the sirens on but no one cared and the chaos continued.  It seems to pick people up and cargo is far more important than keeping the road clear and safe!  Much like school pick-up in the UK!

It was then time to join a long dull road; Uzbekistan seems to have a few of these.  It was the only way over the Qamchiq pass to the Fergana Valley.  For my first night on this journey, I decided to camp behind a petrol station.  It was out of sight and with a wall in the way quiet.  I was not alone.  There was a family staying there in a temporary shelter, keeping an eye on their crops and a herd of cows.  They allowed me to put up my tent.

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