Journey

Finally, I relax!

by Nathan Molyneaux on Jan 2, 2023 category Journey

I decided to pack and send my bike back home, this was a bad idea! There are several reasons, but mainly because it is a complete faff dismantling and packing a bike safely. Not to mention the issue of finding a courier. But alas I managed it but it was painful! Much frustration from me, a box which was 40cm (max 120cm) too long and DHL charging for the privilege!

I had already agreed that I was going to meet TJ and Sam in Tbilisi in the middle of November. This gave me almost a month. I had missed out on a chunk of Turkey’s coast to the South. So I made my way to Fethiye via Ankara.

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Cappadocia and tough decisions

by Nathan Molyneaux on Dec 18, 2022 category Journey, Wild Camping

Just after pitching my tent, a German couple, Uber and Nelly, show up in their 4×4. It’s on its first test run before a bigger trip planned when they retire. It’s an impressive build and I am slightly jealous. Although I do love my bike (just not the seat), I always admire other people’s methods of slow travel. They offer me a beer whilst I cook and eat dinner, tomatoes, beans, tuna, chilli and bread – an eclectic mix. We chat into the evening and the different vehicles he has used to travel around the World. We also talk about his wild camping in Africa, with the lions joining him! The temperature drops but before retiring to bed we notice the sunset behind Uchisar castle and the stars coming out!

Balloons, balloons, balloons everywhere.

With the alarm set for just before sunrise (about 6 am these days) I awaken to the sounds of roars. Thinking I am late and about to miss them, I dress quickly and dive out only to find the roaring carries across the valley. I still had to wait about 45 minutes before they were airborne. They start to get airborne and head toward me; I’m in the perfect spot. The skill of the pilots is something to admire. They drop into the valley travelling just metres from the ground and valley edge. Rising just in time to avoid a collision at the end. I later find out it can cost €200 for a ride in one, €400 if the day before was cancelled. I’m just glad I am scared of heights and will never go up in one!

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Turkey is made by the kindness of its people

by Nathan Molyneaux on Dec 2, 2022 category Journey, Wild Camping

Packed and setting off from the lake, I notice a flat. At least it is the front tyre. Difficult to resolve on the salt and sand, I push to the edge where I decided to try and inflate and see if it holds. It does. I set off along the only road through the lake. The wind pushes against me and it is tough going. I cycle past mounds of salt collected for sale. Its big business here and three trucks have already arrived for filling, it’s only 6am.

I’ve already made the decision I needed a shower and a rest day after the past few days. So I will stop in Aksaray, staying one night in a hotel and the next with a Warmshowers host. But first I had another 80km to get there. Trucks wizzed past, the undulating nature of the road and the heat made it tough going. 20km out from Aksaray I was hungry and tired and my front tyre punctured again! I stop and replace the inner tube with my spare. As I am inflating the inner tube explodes. I have no other spares and I now have to resort to trying to hitch a ride with a bike.

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A different side to Turkey

by Nathan Molyneaux on Nov 21, 2022 category Journey, Wild Camping

I had been warned about cycling in Istanbul and the small bit I had done was pretty terrifying. But going south out of Istanbul was meant to be easy and it was for the first hour. You follow the coast after a short ferry trip (a ferry a day keeps the bike mechanic at bay) to the Asian side. However, then you come up to a main road and even though you try to come off it, there will be a bit of time spent on it. Lorries, cars, vans and tractors all frequent the road making it a hair-raising experience and not one I want to repeat any time soon!

But to avoid the worse I took a second ferry from Eskihisar to Topçular. I then start to get off the main roads on to small roads through the hills, heading towards Iznik. There are three cyclists heading in the opposite direction. I stop and they offer me coffee. We climb on to some rocks and look out over the valley. Chatting through Google Translate I work out they are on their way home to Istanbul after a day trip. We discuss each other’s plans and follow each other on Instagram. They also ask for a separate picture with my bike and I. A couple wanted to give it a ride, I let them. But they found it difficult with the extra weight; it takes some getting use to.

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Istanbul and future options

by Nathan Molyneaux on Nov 4, 2022 category Journey

Anatole and I drop down the ramp and instantly find ourselves trying to cross the D100 main road. With 5 lanes of traffic (that’s just one direction), lorries, cars, motor homes and no hard shoulder it is not a road to trifle with. After a few false starts we find an alternative, although this puts us among the small busy streets. Taxis, people pulling carts of cardboard, vans small and large, people chatting, deals being brokered, the occasional strong debate and two cyclists not knowing where they are going and you have a mix for chaos!

We keep moving upwards and forwards dodging the locals and vehicles. This eventually passes and becomes tourists and e-scooters; I’m not sure which was worst. Passing behind the Sultan Ahmet mosque (aka the Blue Mosque) we drop on to a road heading to the Topkapi palace. It is a tourist street full off restaurant and hotels. We quickly get accosted ‘come here for food,’ ‘where are you from;’ a starter for a conversation to get you into a shop or restaurant. Half way along we find our hostel and start the process of unloading.

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