It should go without saying that trying to hike over a 5,500m pass with a chest cough is a stupid idea. Nevertheless, I still did it. It should also be said that I am two weeks later and still dealing with said cough.
Setting off with Nabil and Seb we first had to endure 6 hour bus journey to the start of the circuit in Besisahar. As is common in these parts and similar to Central Asia the objective is to cram as much cargo and as many people as you can in the bus. Think of the path between the seats laden with live chickens in a bag, boxes of parts and people on stools. I have a feeling if they could’ve put people on the roof they would’ve done.