Whilst riding into Belgrade towards my hostel, I noticed a lot of anti-EU and NATO messaging. The latter I could understand after the NATO bombings but Serbia requested to join the EU. Also their location gives rise to joining EU for trade. It was later during my trip in Serbia that I discovered this is a generational divide with the younger generations in favour of EU membership.
After checking into the Hostel and the obligatory scrub, I joined the other residents for a Turkish coffee. Something I have never had before but enjoyed. Although I feel the joy in the coffee is more the process of making it and pouring it for others. Much like brewing and serving tea. I met several people and a few stood out, Richard and Sally who are retired and travel the World by setting up in one place for a bit and exploring from there and Graham in a similar position, who has spent a great deal of time in Africa. We talk visas, troubled spots of the World and the best places to travel. They have a wealth of knowledge and I hope to gather some of this on my travels! But we all agree that people are kind to travellers worldwide and slow travel is best.
Serbia and the wars
In a baking 41 plus Celsius I start my first walking tour, which looks at the 20th century in Belgrade. I’m hoping to gather some insight into the wars and the creation of the modern Serbia. They cover a few of their Churches and how the country came to be and the various name changes they have gone through (Yugoslavia, Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, Serbia and Montenegro, and finally Republic of Serbia). The guide also mentions the NATO bombings but with no context and specifically only the bombing of the Radio Television Serbia offices. However, nothing mentioned regarding the wars. Maybe I was expecting too much.
However, the tour ends at the new Orthodox Church in Belgrade. Now complete with frescos and is an amazing piece of work and is well worth a visit. The rest of the day was spent chatting to other travellers and hearing their stories from across the World. Another cycle tourist arrived, Garth from Canada, and chatted about his journey to ride the EuroVelo 6 all the way to Constanta, Romania. We discuss his life and from becoming a CEO of a company, whilst at University, to digitise the company and surviving a life threatening illness.
At breakfast the next day I am sat with a group and we discuss wanting to understand more when a Serbian joins us. This leads to a difficult discussion, but he suggests the reason for the war was a change in the constitution in 1974 without the approval of Serbia. However, that doesn’t justify the reason for an invasion almost 20 years later.
I decided on the old town tour and unfortunately didn’t take much in this time. A combination of too hot and too much information. The guide was evidently knowledgeable but with the constant stream of dates and information made it really hard to take in. It’s a pity because from the sound of it Belgrade has had an amazing history. However, I met Camille from yesterday’s tour again and we decide to grab a quick drink afterwards and are joined by two others Freda and Pillav. We discuss our travel plans and also agree to meet up for dinner in the evening.
The next two days were complete right-offs, the first too hot to enjoy riding and the second a storm hit. This left me trying to complete 166km with over 1,300m in elevation in one day to Bajina Basta to go hiking with Camille. This was a recipe for disaster!
The ride to Bajina Basta
The first part started well(ish). It was flat but there was the usual problem of dogs and a couple of vicious ones this time. The weather unfortunately then turned and it rained for the next couple of hours and I lost speed. Then a headwind. The first 100km complete a climb started, there would be three in total building on each other. I felt good going into the first but the second finished me and at 133km I was struggling. Time to put my thump out and see if someone could give me a lift. Because if not, it was going to be a long evening.
The first to stop was an estate car, but unfortunately they were headed down a different pass and couldn’t give me a lift. The second was a car pulling an empty trailer. Perfect, I just hope he is going the same way. He was and even going to the same street as my hostel, my luck is turning. This turned out to be a bit of a blessing, because the next pass would have been in low clouds. We almost hit a tractor with no lights. I’m pretty sure that I might have got hit in this part of the climb.
Tara national park
Camille, who is exploring Serbia, and I set out on a hike the next day to a viewing point over the valley called Banjska Stena. I enjoy these types of hikes with just one person; you get to talk more in depth. The weather gods are against us and I really wish I had hiking boots and not cycling shoes! It was a slippery experience for me. We managed to get to the viewing area, a couple of pictures and then the cloud descended. Whilst having a snack we both commented on the rubbish that was left lying around and I vowed to take a bag’s worth back out. It would only be a small dent but every bit counts.
The afternoon was spent chatting with other members of the hostel. Sofia and Harry who are creating a holiday place in Croatia and embody the van life. They remote work and setup in one place for about a month before moving to another. Generally living a cheap lifestyle. Scott and Shania who are just travelling through Europe and decided to team up for going through the Balkans.
Negative thoughts creep back
During this time the negative thoughts about the trip start to creep in again. Mainly through the loneliness of not meeting other cyclists on the journey. This is starting to have an impact on my enjoyment of the trip and I decided to head back to Belgrade and the EV6 instead of heading over the mountains to Sarajevo and continue along the coast. Something I regretted once I reached Istanbul! I was debating quitting and just backpacking round the World by hitchhiking and bus/train. But I vowed to make it to Istanbul before making any such decision. This was a good idea. I’m currently writing this in Istanbul and looking forward to continuing, although winter is coming!
I stayed an extra day due to the feeling of a cold coming on, the weather was changing. However, everyone was leaving and I find myself left in the hostel with the manager, Artemiy, alone. I spend the day doing some maintenance, journal and a quick walk to the house in the river. A rather eccentric Serbian build it on a rock sticking out of the river. Anything to distract me from being alone. I’m starting to realise whilst I like being by myself I do enjoy travelling with others especially when you have long distances to ride on a bike.
A nicer journey back to Belgrade
To help with the loneliness I thought it would be nice to meet another cycle tourer and the Warmshowers network came up trumps with Milos, who runs a bar in the town Veljevo. You stay in his bar, no shower and a late night, but it is lovely place and you meet his friends and have a few beers. Naturally the sharing of stories starts! It was nice to meet another cycle tourist who understands the issues.
Milos brought me breakfast, which was so large I ended up having some for lunch. I took a bit more of a direct route which meant faster but a few more trucks and cars. Trucks actually waited for me to pullover instead of trying to squeeze past, pity I couldn’t say that for the cars! I stay at the same hostel, Sun Hostel, in Belgrade and get to meet Richard and Sally again.
The next day I get back on the EV6…