I had missed the call to prayer since leaving central Asia, where it isn’t common, but can be found in patches. It tends to help you recognise the time of day without the need for a clock but at 5.30 am it is still a rude awakening! I was aiming to visit 5 mosques/shrines in the area all linked to the Shaitgumbad mosque also known as the 77 domed mosque, a UNESCO heritage site, designed by Khan Jahan Ali. The mosque was built around the 13/14th century and is an unimposing red brick design.
The first of these mosques was the Bibi Begni mosque and I arrived about half an hour after the second prayer had finished and found a small gathering just leaving the mosque. I grabbed my camera and had a quick walk around, it was a simple structure of four mini-minarets barely taller than the building itself. After my walk, I was invited for tea by the small gathering but first had to take pictures of the children, who demanded it!
The main mosque has a large pond behind it, which people use for washing clothes and themselves. But the main mosque has an unimposing, yet grand feel to it. It is still used as a mosque today and set in beautiful peaceful grounds. It is odd not to hear the buses’ horns and rickshaws’ motors as they rush past and demand you get out of the way.
The inside of the mosque is covered with support pillars and alcoves in the direction of Mecca. Differing heights, some with the flickering of candles, others just a plain design make you question why the different designs. Most mosques only have one. Unfortunately, I was too early for the curator.
After visiting I continued heading towards a town where a floating market occurs. I slept overnight in a Hindu temple; the grandfather of the temple gave me a room. As always all I wanted was a place to put my tent. The area I was in had a lot more water and almost every patch of ground has a house, trees or is cultivated leaving no space for a tent.
The lack of market
Unfortunately, I found out that the rice market in Banaripara had been decreasing for years and eventually dropped to just Tuesdays and Saturdays. I was there on a Friday. Apparently, the economics of the market have dropped and it’s just not as big or important as it used to be.
As a result, I set off towards Dhaka through the colourful and tree-covered small roads of the region. I came across the Baitul Aman Jame Mosque, a rather eccentric colourful mosque in the area. It is best viewed at night when it is lit up and even more colourful. It stands out in the area where everything is modest and more fitting with the area.
I then had to join the main road and negotiate the bridge to Dhaka. The main road is different to the small roads. Very busy and full of dangerous bus drivers who don’t care if they hit you. They also seem to take pleasure in using their horns as they pass, deafening you in the process! The last part is to cross the river to Dhaka over Bangladesh’s new bridges.
These bridges are called multipurpose bridges. This is only apparent if you have a motor driving your vehicle. Walking or cycling is prohibited and there is no alternative way to cross; the ferry having been discontinued when the bridge was finished. In the end, I had to hitch across and decided to let them take me into Dhaka because the road would’ve been dull to cycle and lots of traffic.