Walking round the city in the morning, Ljubljana, like the rest of Slovenia, has a bit of a Mediterranean vibe. Although the food is very Germanic, I guess left over from the Austro-Hungary Empire. I learnt the country disappeared for almost a 1,000 year. Quite often being part of another empire and regularly the city would be the centre of conflicts. Mainly due to the city’s location as the gateway to the Middle East. Crusades often went past here.
The rest of the day was spent chilling with the French crew and watching the England women’s football team win the Euros. There happened to be an England pub attached to my hostel. The next day involved a quick visit to the castle and a Communist walking tour. The guide had grown up in Yugoslavia and was 14 when Slovenia declared independency.
Communism under Tito was more relaxed than the Soviet system. This only happened after Yugoslavia was kicked out of the Soviet Union. Religion was allowed to function and each country had its own federal government. They also had some Western companies and were allowed to bring items from their Italian neighbour. It was not all rose under Tito though, some of the collaborators during World War II were killed or beaten after the fall of the Nazis. Although some were prosecuted but many escaped to South America. Plus there was always a chance that people would go missing or be interred in work camps.
Independence
The Yugoslavian army was setup in a way so that Slovenian soldiers did not serve in Slovenia. On the day of declaration the army was moved on to the streets. There were some skirmishes but they remained on the streets for 10 days whilst a negotiation went on between the respective leaders which resulted in the Yugoslavian army returning to barracks.
There was an uneasy truce where Slovenia was not to discuss independence for 3 months after which, if there were no issues Slovenia would gain its independence. 3 months went by and Slovenia gained its independence. During this time the Yugoslavian army was restructured to put leaders in charge that would carry out their orders and this resulted in the attacking of Croatia.
Floating castles… a festival with a difference.
I had made the decision to delay my arrival into Croatia so I could attend the Floating castle festival in Slovenia. This left me a few days between arriving for the festival (one day’s ride) and leaving Ljubljana. I head to the Postojna caves not far from the festival, whilst impressive not worth the fee of 28.50 EUR. On route I met a Canadian, Brian, who was heading in a similar direction and Dave, a Brit, heading round the World on a Honda C50, a very old bike and not very powerful. There is a chance we might meet up again. That evening I head to a Warmshowers host just over the hill from the festival.
I arrived at the festival before the others and select a position which should allow a lie-in before the sun hits the tent. I eventually find this place was not allowed and had to move my tent the next day! The others had to split into two groups due to a brake down and having to wait for a part in Postojna. So with three of us we head into the festival not sure what to expect. The festival came across as a bit of an arts festival but mainly centred around music. However, the beer and food were cheap and it was evident the festival only runs as a not-for-profit.
The next day I move my tent to the same area as the others and meet three Dutch people and two Italians. I decide to head in early to catch the workshops, there was one in particular which was a harmony singing workshop with songs from Scotland and Slovenia. It was run by David Burbidge from the Lake District, who was an excellent instructor. I’ve never been a singer before but maybe I’ve found a new talent?
I pick up the others and we go off to explore the festival. The highlight of the event is the ETNO orchestra, which comprises of 40-50 different artists who are playing at the festival producing a show, quite often with new music. They meet up 10 days beforehand to produce and practice the performance and is different every year depending on instruments. The performance is amazing and a demonstration of their talent. It is also the start of a party atmosphere which continues throughout the evening with several Balkan bands.
Saturday we spend a lot of time chilling at the camp site with our neighbours singing (I decided not to use my new found talent) and playing instruments. Once again the evening brings out the party with several acts standing out. Including a techno duo from Chile. Sunday brings with it some bad weather and the unfortunate ritual of saying goodbye. It still doesn’t get an easier.
Next stop Zagreb…