It was time to start some island hopping all the way to Malaysia. Whilst I would have loved to just get a boat to each island it would’ve been expensive. It would have to be a charter boat for each leg. In the end, I had to cycle around the mainland to the nearest harbour and take the ‘ferry’ across. My first island would be Koh Libong. It is described as not touristy and not touched by the usual tourism and closer to the original Thailand.
The journey to the harbour was a dull main road, nothing much to look at. The harbour town, Hat Yao, was basic with a few shops but mainly just a transit point for the island. For the small islands, people use long boats. The massive outboard was fixed on top with a long prop shaft due to the shallow waters. This means you can’t just ride on; it is a lift the bike across onto the boat. Not easy after a long day’s cycle. It is the same for the motorbikes some locals bring across.
The harbour town on the other side was a little more developed. Several shops and a restaurant and a couple of street food stalls. It was getting late so I wanted to secure where I would stay for the night and I had spotted a campsite not far. On arriving, I found out they were closed due to some construction work. The owner, P’Air, let me stay for free for two nights so I could visit the island.
Koh Libong – the island of the Dugongs
The island itself comprises three main places. The harbour town, the fishing village and a small village with several resorts on the island. The resorts were mainly empty. I first cycled to the fishing village, not sure what to expect. It was a bit busier than expected but still peaceful. Several Chinese tourists were visiting the Dugong viewing tower which had been built out in the water. The idea once at the top you can see them grazing on the seagrass below. I didn’t see any.
My next stop was the village with the resorts. I couldn’t find a name for this village. The people were friendly and happy to see people visit their part of the world. Perched on a little stool with lemonade I could see the wide expanse of the beach. Local children playing in the water with a kayak pushing each other in. Some fishermen leaving, others arriving with a catch of squid from overnight traps.
I then headed over to the opposite side of the island. This part is less developed, with a few homestays but nothing else. There were some deserted beaches but also a hunting lodge. I became concerned what they were hunting was still here and hunting me! At the end of the road, there was a small family house that also made frappes and sold cold drinks. A lovely end to this island.
Koh Sukorn
It was another day’s ride on the mainland before another longboat crossing to the island. After crossing to the island I sheltered in a little cafe on the way to the viewing point. It started to rain and heavy! It eventually ended and I headed up to a viewing point overlooking the sea. I camped there for two days.
On my first morning, I set off cycling around the island and found a corner with several old buildings. There was a resort here but it was destroyed many years before. However, I also found a nice path through the island’s centre, through its many rubber plantations. People still bleeding the trees for their rubber. Little huts they would rest in during the day.
As I moved around the island it seemed more active than Koh Libong but there are still signs of the quiet life islands are known for. It was however a small island and only took a few hours to ride around. So I settled in for a coffee and a chance to get the journal up to date. But I was soon kicked out, it was shutting early along with most of the island! I couldn’t find out why.
I settled in at the viewpoint for my last night and enjoyed my reading and getting ready to set off for Satun and my last night in Thailand
Ban Rao Drip Cafe – best coffee of the entire trip
The ride to Satun was a bit dull, with main roads and rain. But the highlight was on my last day grabbing a quick coffee at Ban Rao Drip Cafe in Satun before I caught the ferry to Langkawi and started my Malaysia trip. The owner, Gia, is so friendly and really knows his coffee. He has a different coffee bean for each type of drink he makes. It is all done by hand with no machine. I’m talking about a hand-press espresso here. Milk is frothed by heating and mixing it with a whisk. By far, it’s my best latte.
I got chatting to him and one of his friends who happens to be a cyclist as well. My bike always being the starting point of any conversation! His friend dashes home to gift me a water bottle from one of Thailand’s cycling competitions. I’ll add it to my collection of weird and wonderful items I have received on my journey. But alas it was time to leave, I could’ve spent all day there, but I had a ferry to catch to Langkawi and Malaysia.